{"id":98759,"date":"2020-01-28T10:00:31","date_gmt":"2020-01-28T10:00:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/?p=98759"},"modified":"2020-01-28T00:23:27","modified_gmt":"2020-01-28T00:23:27","slug":"an-edible-flow-old-food-by-ed-atkins","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/an-edible-flow-old-food-by-ed-atkins\/","title":{"rendered":"An Edible Flow: Ed Atkins&#8217; Old Food"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>By Mike Corrao.<\/p>\n<p><strong> <img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-98760 size-full aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/oldfood-e1580107117590.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"532\" height=\"719\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/oldfood-e1580107117590.jpg 532w, https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/oldfood-e1580107117590-222x300.jpg 222w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 532px) 100vw, 532px\" \/><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Ed Atkins, <a href=\"https:\/\/fitzcarraldoeditions.com\/books\/old-food\"><em>Old Food<\/em><\/a> (Fitzcarraldo Editions, 2019)<\/p>\n<p><em>Old Food<\/em> \/ by Ed Atkins \/ a contemporary artist \/ known for his video art \/ uncanny 3D models and esoteric mutterings \/ is a compact \/ dense \/ hybrid work \/ that reads as if written in a singular fit of mania \/ scrawled haphazardly onto the page \/ triggered by poisonous madeleine cakes \/ <em>What&#8217;s at stake with the sandwich?<\/em> \/ language spews forth \/ seemingly unfiltered \/ guttural and half-formed \/\/<\/p>\n<p>The text exists \/ like this review \/ somewhere between \/ prose and poetry \/ ambiguous zone \/ where the font size is large \/ maybe 14pt or 16pt \/ columns thin and long \/ left-justified \/ the space between paragraph and stanza \/ difficult to define \/ both flow down the page \/ lines or sentences enjambed \/ dimensions of the space utilized as a means of hybridizing \/ the format rendered in a super-position \/ where you cannot know if it is \/ stanza or paragraph \/ until you expand the page \/ and reveal where the author has clicked the \u2018enter&#8217; key \/\/<\/p>\n<p>Atkins&#8217; book \/ as the title suggests \/ is infected with mentions \/ of food and drink \/ that trigger memories and tangential thoughts \/ appearing mid-sentence \/ only to re-vitalize \/ the narrator \/ sending him down another line of memories \/ not unlike Proust&#8217;s madeleine cakes \/ where the narrator inhales the aroma \/ and an onslaught of memories rise to the surface \/ <em>Drinking used to be as basic as upending an animal&#8217;s open neck into your mouth.<\/em> \/\/<\/p>\n<p>An endless stream of images \/ is evoked \/ tall plates of food packed onto wooden tables \/ marshlands and rural towns \/ fat parents hunched over their meal \/ often a with a grotesque nature to the language \/ depicting a dilapidated pastoral \/ <em>We slept gross and happy at night while mum gathered a nocturnal yield of forced rhubarb\u2026<\/em> \/ atemporal \/ anachronistic \/ the narrative flows between almost medieval settings \/ and jarring appearances of technology \/ as if all timelines have collided in the same marsh \/ the past a mystical place \/ unbarred by \/ the confines of the present \/\/<\/p>\n<p>Further mentions of food \/ further dampness and familial dialogues \/ The body and its food begin \/ to muddle together \/ swaying between remoulades \/ and John Carpenter&#8217;s <em>The Thing <\/em>\/ There&#8217;s the sense that \/ everything can be consumed \/ everything can be minced and garnished \/ over yoghurt \/\/<\/p>\n<p>You begin to feel as if \/ the author is drowning you in food \/ pouring each mentioned dish \/ down your gullet \/ until you are unable to move \/ stuck in your seat \/ stared at \/ with an unsettling expression \/ fork and knife in hand \/ ready to portion you into different cuts \/ boil you in salt water \/ saut \u00e9 you with onions \/ dress you in various vinaigrettes \/ <em>Those days we knew how to eat a witch: with gloves on and in one go.<\/em> \/\/<\/p>\n<p><em>Old Food <\/em>conjures a uniquely uncomfortable environment \/ uncomfortable on a physical level \/ reminiscent of Aleskey German&#8217;s film <em>Hard to be a God <\/em>\/ specifically in regards to the mise-en-scene \/ where everything is made out of wood \/ and it is always raining \/ or always had just finished raining \/ a universe without dryness \/ where your socks are always drowned in sweat and wintery slush \/ your fingers are always pruned \/ rendering your flesh tediously fragile \/ so easy to tear \/ Atkins expertly has crafted a world that is almost medieval in its lack of hygiene \/ summoning a visceral response in my body \/ making each page feel \/ as if it is being \/ spoken into my ear \/ by an unkempt stranger \/ with food particles leaping from his lip \/ with every syllable \/\/<\/p>\n<p>This is not the first collaboration \/ between Fitzcarraldo Editions and Ed Atkins \/ <em>A Primer for Cadavers <\/em>(2016) \/ collects many of the artist&#8217;s short texts \/ each oozing \/ guttural \/ bodily \/ flesh \/ rendered into text \/ the first piece \u201cA Tumour (In English)&#8221; \/ erases a round space from the center of two columns \/ the first sentence \/ <em>Reading this text will conjure a tumour up inside you.<\/em> \/ each additional sentence adding to the incantatory atmosphere \/ as if the distorted flesh of the creator \/ is rising off the page \/ crawling from the portal that  \u00a0\/ <em>you<\/em>\u2014the reader-\u2014has summoned\/\/<\/p>\n<p><em>Old Food <\/em>by contrast \/ summons itself \/ after a set of simple stage directions comes the title \/ <em>PERFORMER <\/em>\/ the rest of the book follows uninterrupted \/ in one sense the text is seemingly made to \/ be read aloud \/ by an actor or the artist themself \/ the acknowledgments mention \/ related exhibitions in England and Germany \/ but in another sense \/ the text feels as if it is capable of uttering itself \/ the page as the performer \/ speaking to the reader \/ projecting its voice into your skull \/\/<\/p>\n<p>This sensation is  \u00a0\/ possibly \/ the result of the unending flow \/ the performer speaks forever \/ with no need to stop \/ to take a breath \/ line breaks breaking the running column \/ into manageable segments \/ but they never quite feeling complete \/ as if they are interrupting one another \/ starting and ending before they are ready \/ this is a  \u00a0book that begs \/ to be read in one sitting \/ making the reader feel \/ they are not \/ allowed to stop \/ that there is always more to hear \/ more to read \/ the performer mouth agape \/ mid-sentence \/ when you are ready to stand up \/ you feel obligated to remain seated \/ to listen \/ as saliva pools in your mouth \/\/<\/p>\n<p>Sentences are rife with unique grammar \/ \u201ca&#8221; often replaced by \u201can&#8221; \/ <em>um<\/em><em>&#8216;s<\/em> appear mid-thought \/ <em>There is no margarine at all on the lid of the tub that rests against one um grey sock\u2026<\/em> \/ almost as if the book \/ is written in a different dialect \/ one constructed using the English language \/ but repurposing \/ an ill-fitting lexicon \/ until it can be tooled into something \/ new and useable \/\/<\/p>\n<p>This constant flow \/ can turn the book \/ into an ambient kind of literature \/ where the reader enters a trance \/ is carried through the text \/ not quite reading \/ really just looking at the words \/ grasping onto different anchors \/ familiar words \/ <em>um&#8217;s<\/em> \/ the unexpected appearance of a name \/ Hannah or something similar \/ entering the dreamscape of the text \/ there is no true chronology \/ only the streaming rhythm of the sentence-structure \/\/<\/p>\n<p>Memories resurface \/ half-formed \/ the text&#8217;s ambience marked by a certain \/ quasi-comprehension \/ as if the repetition of a name will convince you \/ that you know someone \/ the deluge of food marked by its ability to connect the past \/ long dormant \/ ambient reading accentuated by a sense of familiarity \/ familiality \/ an experience that sometimes \/ feels like waking up \/ with part of your last dream still in the forefront of your mind \/ right before it has disappeared completely \/ into the unconscious \/ or the oddness of \/ having a dream \/ of arranging plans with a friend \/ or having a random conversation \/ only to wake up \/ and find that no one else remembers it \/\/<\/p>\n<p>If <em>A Primer for Cadavers <\/em>is \/ a metamorphosis from text to corpse \/ <em>Old Food <\/em>is a metamorphosis from text to wetlands \/ to clammy chicken breast \/ raw meat \/ expired cheese \/ it is a beautiful landscape of grotesque and soggy dreams \/ the resurrection of memories \/ an altar made of food \/\/<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-98761 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/mike-headshot-color_orig1.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"448\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/mike-headshot-color_orig1.png 549w, https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/mike-headshot-color_orig1-206x300.png 206w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 448px) 100vw, 448px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>ABOUT THE AUTHOR<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>Mike Corrao<\/strong> is the author of three books, <em>Man, Oh Man<\/em> (Orson&#8217;s Publishing), <em>Two Novels<\/em> (Orson&#8217;s Publishing) and <em>Gut Text<\/em> (11:11 Press), one chapbook, <em>Avian Funeral March<\/em> (Self-Fuck), and many short films. Along with earning multiple Best of the Net nominations, Mike&#8217;s work has been featured in publications such as <em>3:AM, Collagist, Always Crashing<\/em>, and<em> The Portland Review.<\/em> He lives in Minneapolis. Learn more at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.mikecorrao.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" data-saferedirecturl=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/url?q=http:\/\/www.mikecorrao.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1580193026401000&amp;usg=AFQjCNEqeK8-uQYdQW8WssygW37i9Doahg\">www.mikecorrao.com<\/a>.<\/p>\n<div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This constant flow \/ can turn the book \/ into an ambient kind of literature \/ where the reader enters a trance \/ is carried through the text \/ not quite reading \/ really just looking at the words \/ grasping onto different anchors \/ familiar words \/ <em>um&#8217;s<\/em> \/ the unexpected appearance of a name \/ Hannah or something similar \/ entering the dreamscape of the text \/ there is no true chronology \/ only the streaming rhythm of the sentence-structure \/\/<\/p>\n<p><b>Mike Corrao<\/b> reviews <em>Old Food<\/em> by <b>Ed Atkins<\/b>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":119,"featured_media":98760,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-98759","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-criticism"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/98759","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/119"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=98759"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/98759\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":98763,"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/98759\/revisions\/98763"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/98760"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=98759"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=98759"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.3ammagazine.com\/3am\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=98759"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}